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Depending on taste, buying options plentiful
02 08 2011
Depending on taste, buying options plentiful By: Pamela S. Busch 01/27/11 9:15 PM Special to The Examiner I am often asked where you can find the wines that I mention in this column. It’s often difficult to answer that question, as inventories change. Not only that, but depending on the wine, there could be too many places to mention and I would hate to leave any retailers out. However, I am more than happy to suggest what I think are some of the better wine stores in The City. Let’s get the big ones out of the way. K&L has a great selection — and because it works with so much volume, it is able to offer unbeatable pricing. You can find well-known brands such as Penfolds as well as more eclectic treats, like Talai Berri Txacalina (2009, $19.99). Beverages and More gets a bad rap, but thanks to head buyer Wilfred Wong, there are interesting choices lining the shelves, such as Tinto Figuero 4 Mesas (2007) from Ribera del Duero ($19.99). The Wine Club went through some transformation a few years back when it was an ultradiscounter. Its markups are still competitive, and the selection, which has something for almost everyone, has not changed much. Smaller shops, like The Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant, The San Francisco Wine Trading Company, Blackwell’s, Arlequin and Swirl do a superb job spanning the globe and focusing on lesser-known, conscious producers. Price-wise, they are all about the same — meaning a fair, though not a discounted, markup. The Wine House has an international selection with a French bent and excellent customer service. It might be the best place to check if you are a Burgundy nut, and it also carries one of my favorite deals in Champagne — the Arlaux Brut, NV ($36). If you like Italian wine, park yourself at Biondivino. This small space brims over with a thoughtful and exciting selection of wines, ranging from the über-traditional Bartolo Mascarello Barolo, 2004 ($99) to the esoteric wonder, the Feudo di Maurizio ’04 Fumin ($35). California Wine Merchant in the Marina has lots of local cult wines, such as Bryant Family Vineyards cabernet sauvignon, as well as relatively affordable labels like Ancien. Across town, Castro Village Wine Company has been specializing in California wines over the past 30 years and has established brands, like Saintsbury, as well as those that fly under the radar, such as Copain. If natural wines are your thing (and even if not), Terroir has an excellent old-world-dominated range of organic, biodynamic and otherwise natural-defined wines. Many wine stores have increased their stock in this category, but Terroir uses natural winemaking as the criteria for making it past its gates. If you have issues with sulfites, give them a shout. For the sake of brevity, our wine shop tour has kept me within the perimeters of San Francisco — and surely there are other stores that are worthy of your attention both inside and outside The City. I hope this guide has been helpful in finding the perfect wine. Pamela S. Busch is the owner of Skrewcap.com, founder of CAV Wine Bar and a Bay Area wine consultant. Please submit your questions to Pamela@Skrewcap.com. Read more at the San Francisco Examiner: http://www.sfexaminer.com/entertainment/food-and-wine/2011/01/depending-taste-buying-options-plentiful#ixzz1DQaaiQOp
02 08 2011
Depending on taste, buying options plentiful By: Pamela S. Busch 01/27/11 9:15 PM Special to The Examiner I am often asked where you can find the wines that I mention in this column. It’s often difficult to answer that question, as inventories change. Not only that, but depending on the wine, there could be too many places to mention and I would hate to leave any retailers out. However, I am more than happy to suggest what I think are some of the better wine stores in The City. Let’s get the big ones out of the way. K&L has a great selection — and because it works with so much volume, it is able to offer unbeatable pricing. You can find well-known brands such as Penfolds as well as more eclectic treats, like Talai Berri Txacalina (2009, $19.99). Beverages and More gets a bad rap, but thanks to head buyer Wilfred Wong, there are interesting choices lining the shelves, such as Tinto Figuero 4 Mesas (2007) from Ribera del Duero ($19.99). The Wine Club went through some transformation a few years back when it was an ultradiscounter. Its markups are still competitive, and the selection, which has something for almost everyone, has not changed much. Smaller shops, like The Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant, The San Francisco Wine Trading Company, Blackwell’s, Arlequin and Swirl do a superb job spanning the globe and focusing on lesser-known, conscious producers. Price-wise, they are all about the same — meaning a fair, though not a discounted, markup. The Wine House has an international selection with a French bent and excellent customer service. It might be the best place to check if you are a Burgundy nut, and it also carries one of my favorite deals in Champagne — the Arlaux Brut, NV ($36). If you like Italian wine, park yourself at Biondivino. This small space brims over with a thoughtful and exciting selection of wines, ranging from the über-traditional Bartolo Mascarello Barolo, 2004 ($99) to the esoteric wonder, the Feudo di Maurizio ’04 Fumin ($35). California Wine Merchant in the Marina has lots of local cult wines, such as Bryant Family Vineyards cabernet sauvignon, as well as relatively affordable labels like Ancien. Across town, Castro Village Wine Company has been specializing in California wines over the past 30 years and has established brands, like Saintsbury, as well as those that fly under the radar, such as Copain. If natural wines are your thing (and even if not), Terroir has an excellent old-world-dominated range of organic, biodynamic and otherwise natural-defined wines. Many wine stores have increased their stock in this category, but Terroir uses natural winemaking as the criteria for making it past its gates. If you have issues with sulfites, give them a shout. For the sake of brevity, our wine shop tour has kept me within the perimeters of San Francisco — and surely there are other stores that are worthy of your attention both inside and outside The City. I hope this guide has been helpful in finding the perfect wine. Pamela S. Busch is the owner of Skrewcap.com, founder of CAV Wine Bar and a Bay Area wine consultant. Please submit your questions to Pamela@Skrewcap.com. Read more at the San Francisco Examiner: http://www.sfexaminer.com/entertainment/food-and-wine/2011/01/depending-taste-buying-options-plentiful#ixzz1DQaaiQOp
2006 Barolo: The Chronicle recommends
02 08 2011
Has northern Italy's most regal wine retrenched from its love affair with modern winemaking? We were on the lookout for evidence as we tasted about two dozen 2006 Barolos. That vintage should now be on shelves after the region's mandatory three-year aging requirements, yet many wines remain unreleased, prompting us to wonder if there's a bit of a Barolo back stock. 2006 was a year for classicists. We found less oak and more classic flavors in the glass, though the wine's profound Nebbiolo signature - earthy, floral, full of transparent fruit and knotted tannin - wasn't as evident as in two recent benchmark vintages, 2004 and 2001. But there was plenty to enjoy, especially in basic bottlings under $50, which was heartening. Barolo has fallen prey of late to both price spikes and an obsession with single-parcel bottlings that signal how completely Barolo has been mainstreamed. If a return to tradition signals a wider range of bottles - for both short-term drinking and long aging - it's a welcome step toward the past. 2006 Mauro Veglio Barolo ($36): This historic La Morra property made a commitment to a more modern approach in 1992; that has tapered somewhat, though the presence of new wood is forward here. Still, it's hard to resist the great expressive nose in this basic bottling - dried mint, asphalt, rose, conifer and raspberry. Flavors are more subdued, but there's potential in a couple years as the oak is absorbed. (Importer: Wine Warehouse) 2006 Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo ($42): This Barolo estate was re-established in 1996 by Giacomo's son Ferruccio, and this entry-level effort is wonderfully earthy, if slightly closed right now, with kirsch, dust and rose pollen, and bright strawberry fruit. Big and structural, but the tannins and the fruit are in great balance. A leathery, anise-spiked finish hints at a good decade of potential. (Importer: Banville & Jones) 2006 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo ($85): The work continued by Bartolo's daughter Maria Teresa remains a pinnacle of Barolo, never more than in a stoic vintage. If Mascarello wines can be standoffish as kids, this is already evocative, with fresh roses, ginger root, a subtle tar presence, bouillon and bright orange-rind highlights, all stitched together with rich cherry and kirsch flavors. Delicious, timeless stuff, surprisingly ready, but with what one panelist called a "violin-string" tension and a ton of structure for aging. (Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections) 2006 Guido Porro Vigna Lazzairasco Barolo ($39): Porro, based in Serralunga d'Alba, hews to a notably traditional style; this is Barolo as a snapshot of a recent past, from a south-southeast facing site. An immediately pretty dusty and caramelized orange-peel character, with a savory beef-jerky presence amid leathery black cherry fruit. Buoyant and fresh. A Barolo without guilt - not for a long-term wait, but a great deal for the next six to eight years. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant) 2006 Cordero di Montezemolo Monfalletto Barolo ($42): The Monfalletto property was one of few in the commune of La Morra that left an impression this time. Aged in a mix of oak, it splits the difference between traditional and modern styles, with results that might spur debate. Properly tarry and tangy - toasted coriander and tangerine, green olive and sweet cherry. But it's surprisingly polished, making it approachable while not sacrificing its stoic guts. (Importer: Wine Warehouse) 2006 Ettore Germano Prapo Barolo ($70): From Sergio Germano's south-facing parcel just below his Serralunga winery, this is undeniably stylish, forward Barolo - a successful take on a modern style. Lots of rich vanilla accents to edgier lemon rind, apricot and mineral scents. The fruit is rich and deep, and the tannins classically strong. Should be plenty approachable within a couple years. (Importer: Oliver McCrum Wines) 2006 Elio Grasso Gavarini Chiniera Barolo ($90): Grasso works the steep slopes of Monforte, and this muscular Barolo aged in large Slavonian barrels is a high-wire act - stylish, but with lots of tannic austerity. Aromas of spice box, balsam, clay, mandarin orange and cranberry, with a minty herbal kick. Grasso's gorgeous Ginestra Casa Mate ($90) is a touch more approachable right now. (Importer: Oliver McCrum Wines) 2006 Vietti Rocche Barolo ($130): Luca Currado's effort from 45-year-old vines in his native Castiglione remains a Barolo benchmark, aged in Slovenian oak casks for 32 months. A rich cola-like and nutmeg presence, and a tamarind edge, bring depth to the fresh rose and woodsy accents. Deep, extracted and fancy, it's still got lots of classic stuffing - raspberry high tones, black cherry opulence and a vibrancy that remains through rich espresso tones. (Importer: Dalla Terra) Panelists: Jon Bonné, Chronicle wine editor; Ceri Smith, owner, Biondivino; Wolfgang Weber, Chronicle contributor. Jon Bonné is The Chronicle's wine editor. Find him at jbonne@sfchronicle.com and @jbonne on Twitter. This article appeared on page J - 7 of the San Francisco Chronicle Read more: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/01/07/FDJ11H3SSU.DTL#ixzz1DQZeHGBb http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/01/09/FDJ11H3SSU.DTL
02 08 2011
Has northern Italy's most regal wine retrenched from its love affair with modern winemaking? We were on the lookout for evidence as we tasted about two dozen 2006 Barolos. That vintage should now be on shelves after the region's mandatory three-year aging requirements, yet many wines remain unreleased, prompting us to wonder if there's a bit of a Barolo back stock. 2006 was a year for classicists. We found less oak and more classic flavors in the glass, though the wine's profound Nebbiolo signature - earthy, floral, full of transparent fruit and knotted tannin - wasn't as evident as in two recent benchmark vintages, 2004 and 2001. But there was plenty to enjoy, especially in basic bottlings under $50, which was heartening. Barolo has fallen prey of late to both price spikes and an obsession with single-parcel bottlings that signal how completely Barolo has been mainstreamed. If a return to tradition signals a wider range of bottles - for both short-term drinking and long aging - it's a welcome step toward the past. 2006 Mauro Veglio Barolo ($36): This historic La Morra property made a commitment to a more modern approach in 1992; that has tapered somewhat, though the presence of new wood is forward here. Still, it's hard to resist the great expressive nose in this basic bottling - dried mint, asphalt, rose, conifer and raspberry. Flavors are more subdued, but there's potential in a couple years as the oak is absorbed. (Importer: Wine Warehouse) 2006 Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo ($42): This Barolo estate was re-established in 1996 by Giacomo's son Ferruccio, and this entry-level effort is wonderfully earthy, if slightly closed right now, with kirsch, dust and rose pollen, and bright strawberry fruit. Big and structural, but the tannins and the fruit are in great balance. A leathery, anise-spiked finish hints at a good decade of potential. (Importer: Banville & Jones) 2006 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo ($85): The work continued by Bartolo's daughter Maria Teresa remains a pinnacle of Barolo, never more than in a stoic vintage. If Mascarello wines can be standoffish as kids, this is already evocative, with fresh roses, ginger root, a subtle tar presence, bouillon and bright orange-rind highlights, all stitched together with rich cherry and kirsch flavors. Delicious, timeless stuff, surprisingly ready, but with what one panelist called a "violin-string" tension and a ton of structure for aging. (Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections) 2006 Guido Porro Vigna Lazzairasco Barolo ($39): Porro, based in Serralunga d'Alba, hews to a notably traditional style; this is Barolo as a snapshot of a recent past, from a south-southeast facing site. An immediately pretty dusty and caramelized orange-peel character, with a savory beef-jerky presence amid leathery black cherry fruit. Buoyant and fresh. A Barolo without guilt - not for a long-term wait, but a great deal for the next six to eight years. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant) 2006 Cordero di Montezemolo Monfalletto Barolo ($42): The Monfalletto property was one of few in the commune of La Morra that left an impression this time. Aged in a mix of oak, it splits the difference between traditional and modern styles, with results that might spur debate. Properly tarry and tangy - toasted coriander and tangerine, green olive and sweet cherry. But it's surprisingly polished, making it approachable while not sacrificing its stoic guts. (Importer: Wine Warehouse) 2006 Ettore Germano Prapo Barolo ($70): From Sergio Germano's south-facing parcel just below his Serralunga winery, this is undeniably stylish, forward Barolo - a successful take on a modern style. Lots of rich vanilla accents to edgier lemon rind, apricot and mineral scents. The fruit is rich and deep, and the tannins classically strong. Should be plenty approachable within a couple years. (Importer: Oliver McCrum Wines) 2006 Elio Grasso Gavarini Chiniera Barolo ($90): Grasso works the steep slopes of Monforte, and this muscular Barolo aged in large Slavonian barrels is a high-wire act - stylish, but with lots of tannic austerity. Aromas of spice box, balsam, clay, mandarin orange and cranberry, with a minty herbal kick. Grasso's gorgeous Ginestra Casa Mate ($90) is a touch more approachable right now. (Importer: Oliver McCrum Wines) 2006 Vietti Rocche Barolo ($130): Luca Currado's effort from 45-year-old vines in his native Castiglione remains a Barolo benchmark, aged in Slovenian oak casks for 32 months. A rich cola-like and nutmeg presence, and a tamarind edge, bring depth to the fresh rose and woodsy accents. Deep, extracted and fancy, it's still got lots of classic stuffing - raspberry high tones, black cherry opulence and a vibrancy that remains through rich espresso tones. (Importer: Dalla Terra) Panelists: Jon Bonné, Chronicle wine editor; Ceri Smith, owner, Biondivino; Wolfgang Weber, Chronicle contributor. Jon Bonné is The Chronicle's wine editor. Find him at jbonne@sfchronicle.com and @jbonne on Twitter. This article appeared on page J - 7 of the San Francisco Chronicle Read more: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/01/07/FDJ11H3SSU.DTL#ixzz1DQZeHGBb http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/01/09/FDJ11H3SSU.DTL
http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/jonbonne/2010/10/28/how-to-toast
10 30 2010
Earlier this week I put out a call wondering what wine to drink while watching the World Series. Some responses were obvious (beer, of course) and let’s hope things don’t turn to the point that we’ll need some of the others — like whiskey, neat. But wine is a trickier choice, if that’s your sort of thing. I got a lot of expected choices — most of them with bubbles, and sure, there’s good reason to have a bottle — or six — of prosecco or cava or whatever on hand. Maybe make that five bottles of the everyday, and a bottle of Champagne for when game six is in the bag. (Or make it six bottles of Champagne, if you’re feeling ambitious and confident.) Of course there are no shortage of winemakers who are loyal San Francisco fans, and in case I hadn’t known, reminders have been showing up in my inbox through the week. And then there was the notion of matching players to beverages, which seems like a good parlor game between innings — though perhaps more complicated than it seems. I was all ready to link Brian Wilson to Pabst Blue Ribbon (I swear he was riding a fixie down Valencia the other day, right?) but he might be more like a bottle of Russian River Brewing’s Consecration. What to drink, though? I have to hand the best idea to my friend Patrick Comiskey, who despite being in Dodgers territory still retains his San Francisco stripes. His idea? Orange wine, of course. Which is to say, white wine that is made like a red — left on its skins to gain additional texture and color. Wine shop Biondivino on Russian Hill soon had a similar notion, offering a 15 percent discount on orange wines. (Owner Ceri Smith has long had orange as the shop’s signature color, so this isn’t a huge stretch.) Seeing as one virtue of orange wines is that they go with all sorts of food, they’re also a safe bet to drink with anything from garlic fries to, say, nachos. Admittedly, most orange wines are Italian, but if you want to keep things close to home, there are a handful of orange-ish wines from Wind Gap, Natural Process Alliance and Point Concepcion, among others. Or just look for a very orange-seeming rosé. But do keep that Champagne around, y’know?
10 30 2010
Earlier this week I put out a call wondering what wine to drink while watching the World Series. Some responses were obvious (beer, of course) and let’s hope things don’t turn to the point that we’ll need some of the others — like whiskey, neat. But wine is a trickier choice, if that’s your sort of thing. I got a lot of expected choices — most of them with bubbles, and sure, there’s good reason to have a bottle — or six — of prosecco or cava or whatever on hand. Maybe make that five bottles of the everyday, and a bottle of Champagne for when game six is in the bag. (Or make it six bottles of Champagne, if you’re feeling ambitious and confident.) Of course there are no shortage of winemakers who are loyal San Francisco fans, and in case I hadn’t known, reminders have been showing up in my inbox through the week. And then there was the notion of matching players to beverages, which seems like a good parlor game between innings — though perhaps more complicated than it seems. I was all ready to link Brian Wilson to Pabst Blue Ribbon (I swear he was riding a fixie down Valencia the other day, right?) but he might be more like a bottle of Russian River Brewing’s Consecration. What to drink, though? I have to hand the best idea to my friend Patrick Comiskey, who despite being in Dodgers territory still retains his San Francisco stripes. His idea? Orange wine, of course. Which is to say, white wine that is made like a red — left on its skins to gain additional texture and color. Wine shop Biondivino on Russian Hill soon had a similar notion, offering a 15 percent discount on orange wines. (Owner Ceri Smith has long had orange as the shop’s signature color, so this isn’t a huge stretch.) Seeing as one virtue of orange wines is that they go with all sorts of food, they’re also a safe bet to drink with anything from garlic fries to, say, nachos. Admittedly, most orange wines are Italian, but if you want to keep things close to home, there are a handful of orange-ish wines from Wind Gap, Natural Process Alliance and Point Concepcion, among others. Or just look for a very orange-seeming rosé. But do keep that Champagne around, y’know?
Five Impressive Wines Under $25
DETAILS MAGAZINE
12 22 2009
By Rob Willey | Photographs by Lucas Zarebinski One certainty of the looming holiday season is that you and your extended tribe will guzzle vast quantities of alcohol in the name of togetherness. When you tire of the standard fare, uncork a surprise: red wine. Not those Australian and American fruit bombs or the ritzy French and Italian offerings. There's a world of curveballs built for breaking with tradition, and most are more drinkable than the stuff you're used to knocking back.
THE BOTTLES
DETAILS MAGAZINE
12 22 2009
By Rob Willey | Photographs by Lucas Zarebinski One certainty of the looming holiday season is that you and your extended tribe will guzzle vast quantities of alcohol in the name of togetherness. When you tire of the standard fare, uncork a surprise: red wine. Not those Australian and American fruit bombs or the ritzy French and Italian offerings. There's a world of curveballs built for breaking with tradition, and most are more drinkable than the stuff you're used to knocking back.
THE BOTTLES
2008 Enologica Temera Alodio Ribeira Sacra [$15]
The unlikely product of the insanely steep hillsides of Spain's Galicia region, this bracing, peppery red has the sort of insider cachet that should motivate you to buy a case—assuming you can track one down.
2008 Occhipinti IGT Sicilia SP68 Nero d'Avola [$22]
Sicilian wine gets no respect, but this organic knockout—both savory and intensely refreshing—makes the definitive case for reappraisal. It's like a palate cleanser you can't stop drinking.
2006 Leo Hillinger Zweigelt [$22]
Austrian wine got a big profile bump from all the Grüener Veltliner sloshing around of late, but polished reds made from the Zweigelt grape are the real score. This one is packed with bold cherry flavors.